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Over Christmas, we visited my brother and his fiancée in Playa del Carmen. They're nomads, but Mexico is their current port of call, so it seemed like a good idea to travel down and visit them for the holidays.
Paul Graham has a line in an essay about how "What surprised you?" is the best sort of question you can ask someone coming back from a trip. Travel is a form of information gathering, and "What surprised you?" gets at "What new information have you learned that contradicts something you'd strongly believed before your trip?"
Surprise itself. Embarrassing to admit, but I didn't expect to encounter much surprise on this trip. I thought we would have fun times with family, but I thought I already understood Mexico through osmosis by living in California: Tacos here; tacos there. Beaches here; beaches there. Spanish here; Spanish there.
That was a silly, small-minded view. There are things to learn and surprises to be had walking around my neighborhood. Of course there would be surprise on an international trip.
Scale. The scale of tourism on the Yucatán Peninsula is immense. Playa del Carmen is a small town relative to Cancún, but still has miles of walkable beachfront commerce, with shopping mall developments that rival Orange County. You could drive a hours in either direction and still not run out of massive, all-inclusive beachfront resorts. Not to mention the islands. Not to mention the 20-story cruise ships parked off the coast. It seems a lot of the development has taken place in the last 10 years, with substantial international investment.
Safety. Federal police were highly visible, and very professional. Nobody harassed us during our trip, and my mom walking around on her own didn't seem like an undue risk. It was explained to me that this wasn't always the case: fighting local/state corruption had led to putting federal police in charge of the region. Yucatan tourism is Mexico's cash cow, and Mexico intends to defend it.
Spanish. In Playa, everyone speaks Spanish. This shouldn't have been surprising, but with the scale of global tourism in the region, I had assumed market forces would have drawn more English proficiency to the region. I used every ounce of my 3 years in high school Spanish, which you can see on full display in this newsletter's headers, but we got along well enough using a combination of Portuguesey Spanish and Luana's incredible social graces. (and graciases?)
Immigration. Playa del Carmen has multiple types of immigrants. Alongside the tourists, many expats call Playa del Carmen home. Foreigners can't own property in Mexico, but certain legal workarounds accommodate effectively the same purpose. The prosperity from tourism draws job-seekers from across Mexico, as well as Central America, South America, and beyond. We met hardworking Venezuelans and Argentinians while exploring restaurants and shops and food carts.
Argentinians tended to speak the best English.
Prices. All prices surprise me these days, which might be a sign of getting old. However, it surprised me that Walmart prices in Playa del Carmen were mostly the same as Walmart prices in Southern California.
Source: Twonks
Principles by Nabeel Qureshi
How to tell a good story by Dylan
The Age of the Essay by Paul Graham
The Future of Travel Is Less Exotic by Tyler Cowen
I vibe-coded this while we were in Mexico using Claude Code. Try it out and let me know your thoughts - or better yet, pass it along to any early math learners in your lives.
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